A (Very) Brief History on Coloring Cheeses

A customer recently asked me what my favorite yellow cheese was. Yellow. Ummm, excuse me...???

She didn't even mention hard vs. soft or sharp vs. creamy. I get that there are many nuances to the way a cheese tastes and that not everyone can quite put their finger on what qualities they desire. But seriously, 'yellow' doesn't even reliably narrow it down. In this case, the color does not indicate taste. Milk is white (or at most has a golden tint), and aging doesn't change it all that much. Any time you see a bright yellow or orange cheese in the grocery store it is because coloring has been added, but there is no consistent guideline about which styles get the treatment.

So her question was utterly frustrating. I had to convince myself that she must be making some snazzy color coordinated party platter just to keep from smacking my forehead against the counter. Yes, that must be it...

And now, because you know not to ask such a silly thing but may still be wondering why and how people began coloring cheeses, here are some interesting tidbits:

- Certain cows, when grazing during summer on lush grasses high in beta-carotene may have a more golden tint to their milk. Its a sign of an excellent diet (as well as high butterfat content), and hence quality. In winter, when cows are fed grain and hay the milk is always white.

- Apparently, back in the 17th century some English farmers wanted to pass off their products as higher quality. They would skim off the cream (where the color is prevalent) to sell separately, and color the remaining milk, thus expanding their profits. I imagine they could have also colored some winter milk so the resulting cheese would appear to be from grass-fed cows.

- The practice originated in fraud, yet the tradition of coloring cheeses has persisted in commercial facilities to maintain visual consistency.

- Today annatto is responsible for the yellow/orange color we see in many cheeses, with cheddars being the most recognizable. It is derived from the seeds of the achiote plant. The amount required to color cheese does not add any flavor.

What Is So Special About Cheese?

When I hear a phrase like ‘mature cultured cheese’ I can’t help but envision a personified wedge of brie sitting at a Paris cafe sipping a glass of wine and commenting on the writings of Rousseau. That’s what comes to mind, but that’s not at all what I’m going for.

When it comes to cheese cultures, we’re talking about the bacteria that gives each cheese its own distinct character. Kind of like how San Francisco sourdough is unique because of the specific conditions of that place. Or how you can start off with a bunch of hops and get so many flavors of beer based on how it ferments. Cheese is also a living breathing thing, and so much more than just ‘mix this with that and let it sit for so long’.

There are specific strains of bacteria that are present in brie, or blue, or cheddar styles. There are also specific cheeses, such as Manchego, that can only be made in a certain region under certain conditions...much like how true Champagne comes only from France.

So what makes this all exciting is the variety of flavors and textures that can be experienced when you dive into the world of artisan cheese. There are many up and coming American creameries that are experimenting with a variety of factors and producing some really delicious and memorable snacks. It’s like art for your mouth.

If you want to get the 101 on how to identify the basic categories of cheeses, read my mini-guide to the 5 types of cheeses here.

The Basic Types of Cheeses

When you are at the cheese counter, use these cues to get an idea of what to expect from a specific cheese. Pretend you’re on safari and see how many you can identify. There are 5 basic categories:

Fresh Cheese

These are very very young cheeses that have not had time to age, and so they are very soft with a milky taste. Examples are: ricotta, cottage cheese, fresh mozzarella, and chevre. Most often they are used in recipes or as salad toppings.

Soft Ripened Cheese

These have a white bloomy-rind and creamy texture due to the mold on their surface. The mold breaks down the proteins from the outside in, so it is possible for the center to be somewhat more firm than the paste at the edges. Brie is a well-known example of a soft ripened cheese. The rind is edible, but it's all a matter of personal preference as it can have a stronger taste.

Washed Rind Cheese

At some point in the aging process the cheese was dipped in a salt brine or some kind of alcoholic beverage. This contributed to a unique mix of bacteria on the surface, which results in a somewhat ‘stinky’ cheese that usually has an orange rind. They can range in texture from soft to hard. Don’t be deceived by a strong aroma...they don’t always taste like the smell, so be a little adventurous.

Natural Rind Cheese

These are semi-hard or hard cheeses that have been aged long enough that the outer layer basically dries out. Sometimes they are cloth-bound. Because of moisture loss, they often have a more concentrated flavor and can even have a build up of tasty little crystals. Parmigiano-Reggiano is an example.

Blue Cheese

The penicillium bacteria creates the blue veins running through this cheese and gives it its pungent taste. While the cheese will almost always be soft, the texture can still vary from creamy to crumbly. A few you may have heard of are gorgonzola and stilton. Cambozola is an interesting cheese that is actually a soft ripened blue cheese...it is a good intro if you are just starting to explore the category.

These are a few of the broadest categories that can act as a jumping off point in discovering what you like in a cheese.

Which ones have you tried, and what are you interested in next?

Cheese Carving at The American Cheese Society's Annual National Conference

I’ve been getting paid to work with food for about 5 years now, but have enjoyed playing with it for much longer. In July 2017 I had the opportunity to do both at a cheese carving competition in Denver during the American Cheese Society’s Annual National Conference.

The thought of carving cheese tickled me and I embraced such a whimsical experience, but nerves started to build as I only had 10 days to come up with a concept as well as figure out how to actually execute it. I’d never carved anything before, let alone cheese!!! What if I cut off too much?? What if my dimensions were skewed? What if it’s too top-heavy and the connection points break?? Aaaghhhh…..

I decided to go with a 2D bas-relief concept of a picture frame in which the scenery spills out into the foreground. Since the theme of the event was “Cheese with Altitude”, it seemed fitting to draw inspiration from the wide open spaces of Colorado. Yeah, mountains are pretty to look at and all that, but open spaces and the water provided from the snowpack really tie into what dairy animals need to have a great quality of life. What all of us need, really. I wanted my concept to segway into those kind of conversations rather than just being something pretty to look at.

The finished product, on its way to the people's choice award at the Festival of Cheeses.

All in all, it was a great experience. I had 5 hours to carve with the assistance and moral support of my co-worker Blake, self-proclaimed “hype man”. Always reliable for building enthusiasm, he drew in the local news reporters and told our story with gusto...and then some. Here’s an article about the cheese carving event.

In the midst of competition.